The makeup completed for the Givenchy Spring/Summer Collection 2016 was by Pat McGrath. There were two specific looks for the catwalk for the Spring Summer 2016 collection, both designed by McGrath. The first design, left the models face’s completely covered and adorned in jewels and beads, whilst the second completely contrasted this, with the model’s faces almost stripped bare, with bleached eyebrows and hair hanging down by their shoulders. This contrast mirrored that of the clothing. For the jewelled masks, McGrath took pattern influence from that of the lace in the clothing, as well as using the material from the dresses as adornments. Using the smallest detailing, McGrath managed to entwine the makeup looks directly with the clothing. Out of over 60 models, only 5 were chosen to wear the bejewelled masks, which took just over five hours to apply for a team of makeup artists, directed by McGrath. Another two were selected to fashion a deep-red lip, whilst the other model's were bare-faced with bleached brows.
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One of the lace and pearly combination looks.
Givenchy, SS2016 |
"We were told the show was a celebration of love in all its forms. Riccardo wanted the masks to look soft, to be more romantic and organic, but still strong and a bit strange." (McGrath, 2015)
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One of the bare-faced, bleached eyebrow looks.
Givenchy, SS2016 |
The jewelled mask application was led by McGrath, and was top-secret. Even during the application, the models and artists were in a small section backstage, which was shrouded in velvet. The materials were directly from the fabrics from the clothing; "Riccardo chose the different materials for the masks because he wanted them to work with the dresses, and so there was contrast between them on the runway. The metal plates you see around the model's forehead you'll also see in the clothes" (McGrath, 2015). Each mask differed to the other, one was made from layers of pearls and lace, another made from tulle and pearls, another made completely from jewels, one made entirely from lace and the last was more of a headband of studs that were glued onto the model's skin. The team applied the decorations using specialist glue, commonly used in Special Effects. This made sure that all of the jewels were secure, and would not move about during the show. Planning the looks, McGrath used the same materials on a plan of the model's faces on a sheet of clear plastic, for reference when creating the looks. After all of the facial adornments were in place, McGrath and her team then went in to work into the model's skin, so the makeup underneath matched that of the other 60 models. Their brows were bleached, a small amount of concealer used, and then grey-brown sunken eyes. Most of the hairstyles consisted of the hair lying flat against the head in tousled waves, whilst a select few used headbands, or low ponytails to portray the industrialism in the collection. The hair was then spritzed with hairspray before the model's left for the runway. The hairstyles were designed and applied by Murenu.
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The vampy-red lip look.
Givenchy, SS2016 |
I find the makeup looks very individual, as well as complimentary of the clothing. I think that McGrath and Tisci have worked well together to create such hauntingly beautiful looks. I adore the bleached brow look as it makes the model's look slightly alien, but their faces are still beautiful. I particularly liked how McGrath did not use too much product on the model's faces, as only a small bit of concealer where needed, and a small application of brown mascara kept the look natural. The bejewelled faces are so detailed but bizarre, that they also are very beautiful in their own right. I think I would like to play around with the idea of using jewels and lace, although I do not think I will complete a full look like McGrath. I would like to try applying small amounts of jewels, and see where I prefer them to sit. I have grasped a lot of influence and inspiration from this collection and the makeup, that I feel like I am ready to begin designing my concepts.
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A Jewelled Mask.
Givenchy, SS2016 |
Panych, S. and Magazine, A. (2015) All the details of those amazing masks at Givenchy. Available at: http://www.allure.com/beauty-trends/blogs/daily-beauty-reporter/2015/09/givenchy-beauty-spring-2016.html (Accessed: 18 February 2016).
Pierce, C. (2015) Makeup artist Pat McGrath on the story behind Givenchy’s extraordinary face masks. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13334646/givenchy-spring-2016-face-masks-beauty-pat-mcgrath-backstage-models/ (Accessed: 18 February 2016).
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