Givenchy S/S 2016 Menswear Collection

On the 26th June 2015, the Givenchy S/S 2016 Menswear Collection was revealed in Paris. The collection was under the close scrutiny of creative director Riccardo Tsici, whose strong Catholic roots were prominent within the clothing design. Religion features in many of the designs for Givenchy as it is such an important role in Tisci's life, however, it has never been so apparent. The theme for this year's menswear collection was that of the incarcerated male, and Tisci's influence was that of the world's most renowned male prisoner, Jesus Christ.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

This symbolic reference towards Jesus Christ was prominent throughout the clothing and accessories, as well as the catwalk itself. Sat at the end of the catwalk, a large cage. Hung around each model's neck was a large key, symbolising that these men are prisoners. Here, I think Tisci could have also of been referencing the males as new prisoners of fashion, as menswear is becoming a larger and larger market. On the clothing themselves, printed Jesus and ID tag numbers. Images of Jesus printed onto the clothing was included as Jesus is such a large icon to male inmates in prisons, and he plays a large part in many inmates lives. Contrasting this, was the use of the female models. Female Models in Menswear Collections are becoming more and more apparent, and the Givenchy Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Collection was no exception. The likes of Kendall Jenner, Naomi Campbell and Joan Smalls featured on this year's runway, in feathered, fringed, flowing dresses. They were from the jail inmates' dreams, the pin-up models that share the same fascination from the prisoners as Jesus. It was almost as if Tisci was portraying the saints and sinners throughout this collection, as the prisoners have the iconic Jesus Christ to support them, but are also lured towards the beauty and glamour of the women.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

The mens clothing was varied, some were very simple items such as V-Neck, Navy Blue Sweatshirts that swamped the models, whilst some were printed symbols on bright blue tuxedo jackets, with a matching T-Shirt Dress and shoes. Blues, Blacks, Greys and Whites were all very apparent throughout the menswear, as well as shape. The shaping and structure of the clothing was oversized, but with either a very sharp structure, or slouched. There was a modern-tribal, urban feel to the clothes, as Tisci had used a range of materials for this collection. The materials ranged from printed denim jeans, to sheer blouses, to heavy white jackets. The mixture could have so easily been seen as a mistake, although Tisci had managed to pull this collection off. The star-printed jeans are reminiscent of the 1990s, but alongside the rest of the collection, fit in very well. I particularly liked the outfit that consisted of the black sweatshirt, alongside the loose basketball shorts, which had a false skirt covering them. I particularly liked the use of colours, and the royal blue and the orange print of Jesus looking up towards the model caught my eye. There was a clear feminine feel to some pieces of the clothing, although not as much as in some catwalks. The shoes, in particular, were the same style as T-Bar flat shoes, the same as you would find on a doll.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

The women contrasted the mens completely, but still complimented the mens collection. There were 11 styles of haute couture clothing for the ladies, which was a clever way for Riccardo to introduce these styles to the general public. The clothing was exquisite, finely detailed and feminine. Feathers, fringing and ruffles all appeared on the dresses, which were of a mid length, and a lot of the time, very sheer. The female model's underwear peered through the clothing, which to me represents the females luring in the men. The last entrance of Naomi Campbell surely stole the show, wearing lingerie and only a glittery jacket to cover her body. Although this was a Menswear collection, I can't help but feel like the women took over the show. The dresses were individually beautiful, adorned in sparkles and jewels. I feel like it is important for me to research both the menswear and the ready-to-wear collections,  as they are both an equal part of Givenchy. I liked the use of the pastel tones of the womenswear, contrasting against the restricted mens-wear palette. I feel that the dresses that the female models wore in this collection link closely to the makeup collection that Givenchy Beauty is releasing in March 2016, 'La Revelation Originelle'. This collection consists of pastel tones, as well as some brighter pinks. I think it would be interesting to try and contrast the pastel tones and the dark tones that Givenchy use, I would like to experiment with how this would look in a photoshoot.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

Givenchy Menswear, SS2016.

 Michault, J. and Staiano, G. (2016) Givenchy-Menswear-SS16-Paris-7650.jpg. Available at: http://nowfashion.com/givenchy-menswear-spring-summer-2016-paris-14880 (Accessed: 20 February 2016).

Blanks, T. (2014) Givenchy spring 2016 menswear fashion show. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/givenchy (Accessed: 20 February 2016).

Technical File - Braiding.

In our practical session with Lottie this week, we looked at hair braiding. I have to admit it was a little daunting walking into this session as I am only just becoming confident in french plaiting, the thought of having to create an 11 strand plait was quite nerve-wrecking. I was however, quite looking forward to building my skills, as this is a technique that you can use in so many hairstyles. 

Health and Safety -
Always make sure that products are clean and sanitised, ready to use. This goes the same for brushes and equipment.
Make sure your hair is tied back, with no jewellery that will interfere with the model/client.
Make sure you use a cape to cover the model/client's clothing.
Sanitise hands.
Always complete a consultation beforehand.

Equipment -

Small rubber hair bands. 

Sectioning comb.

Sectioning Clips.

Paddle Brush. 

Dutch braid - Method:

1. Begin by brushing the hair through to ensure that there are no knots. 
2. Take the corner section of hair from the parting at the front, and divide into three small strands. 
3. Start by plaiting the hair. When plaiting, ensure that the strands are going underneath each other, rather than over each other (this would be a french plait).
4. Introduce hair from above the plait, as well as below it. 
5. Try to keep the braid tight to the head. It is easier to introduce the section of hair after you have the strands in place.
6. Continue along the head, and plait off to finish. 

Here are two images of the dutch braid I completed in the practical. I am slightly unhappy with them, as the bottom sectioning line is untidy. I think that if I had either tied or clipped back the hair underneath, this would have stopped the problem. This is the second time that I have completed a dutch braid, and I am starting to become more confident in the technique. I now need to work on the clean sections.

Waterfall Braid - Method:

1. Brush the hair through to ensure that there are no knots in the hair. 
2. Start at the corner section by the parting, and plait normally. 
3. Plait the hair twice, and drop the bottom section. With this section, it is easier for the model to hold the strand so that it does not get in the way.
4. After dropping a strand, introduce a strand of hair from above the braid. 
5. Plait twice, and then drop another strand. 
6. Repeat this, then plait off. 

Here are a couple of images of the waterfall braid that I have created. I am pleased with how this look went, although I did find it a little more difficult than the dutch braid. I think that I should have tried to keep this braid a little tighter, to create a better shape. 

5 Strand Plait - Method:

1. Start by brushing the hair through using a paddle brush. 
2. Divide the hair into three sections, one either side, and one at the back. 
3. Clip back the two side sections.
4. Divide the back section into five even strands. 
5. Starting on the right-hand side, plait strand 3, 4 and 5 once. 
6. Now, move to the other side, but keeping hold of strand 5, which has moved into the middle.
7. Plait strand 1, 2 and 5, and keep hold of strand 1, which is now in the middle.
8. Repeat this process throughout the hair.
9. Tie with a rubber band.

Here is my first attempt at a 5-strand plait. I found this technique a lot easier than I had previously expected it to be. Looking at the plait, it seems quite daunting as you imagine yourself juggling 5 strands of hair all at once, but when you begin to just use three strands and switch sides, it becomes a lot more simple. I am pleased with the outcome of this plait, and would like to use this technique again.

8 Strand Plait - Method:

1. Keeping the 5 Strand plait in, undo the right side section that you had previously clipped out of the way. 
2. Begin a normal 3 strand plait. 
3. After every plait, loop the strand on the left through the back of the 5 strand plait, and over. 
4. Plait again, and repeat the loop.
5. Continue down to the end of the plait, and secure with a hair tie. 

This is an image of my 8 Strand Plait. I found this technique particularly intriguing as you were using the 5 strand plait, adding a normal plait to make it three. I have always questioned how people managed to plait all 8 strands, but now I know how simple it really is. I am very pleased with this plait, I would definitely like to try this again. 

11 Strand Plait - Method:

1. Using the section of hair that was clipped up on the left side of the head, brush this through to ensure that there are no knots. 
2. Begin a three strand plait.
3. After every movement, loop the strand that is on the right of the plait through the back to the front of the 8-strand plait, just like the movement when completing it on the right side.
4. Repeat this technique, and secure at the end of the plait using a hair tie. 

Here is an image of the final outcome of my 11 strand plait. I am really pleased with this look, although I know that it is a little messy at the top of the plait. I am definitely going to practice this look, as it can be used in many hairstyles. I found this practical very beneficial, as Lottie came up to each of us for help and support. 

'La Revelation Originelle'

S/S 2016 'La Revelation Originelle'

The Spring/Summer 20116 Makeup Collection from Givenchy Beauty will be released in Europe and America in March 2016, whilst Asia receives this collection in January 2016. The collection, named 'La Revelation Originelle', is somewhat reminiscent of the past, with a surge of pastel tones and vivid hues. This makeup collection by Givenchy contains the focus product 'Poudre Lumber Originelle', an illuminating powder, with a matte finish. The product aims to soften the skin's look, without leaving a shimmer. Other products in the collection include colourful eyeshadows, a selection of pinks for the lips, nails and eyes, grey mascaras, and liquid eyeliners in various colours. I found this collection very intriguing when researching, down to the choice of colours that Givenchy have chosen to create. Their Spring/Summer 2016 catwalk was full of black, white and golds, however there is very little in this collection. The colours are fun and light, which totally contrasts the look of the catwalk. There is however, a clever way in which Givenchy has managed to tie the products to the catwalk. The pattern, particularly used in the highlight powder, is the same as those found in the dresses of the catwalk. I find this very interesting, as Givenchy have managed to subtly tie this collection to the catwalk.  I think that it would be interesting to try and use some of these colours in my own images that I will be taking, as long as they still have the Givenchy look. I really like the colours that have been released in this collection by Givenchy, as they are very light and fun, and well suited to the Spring season. The beauty shot used for the campaign is angelic and light, which is similar to the makeup. Givenchy have used similar colours and tones in the background, in the pattern of light reflecting off glass. There is an emphasis on radiating light in this image, particularly through the use of the background, but also in the makeup. I think that Givenchy chose to use the highlight powder as their focus product for this collection, whilst all of the other products compliment it.

HOVHANNISYAN, A. (2015) ‘Givenchy “La Revelation Originelle”’, 21 December. Available at: http://www.fashionisers.com/perfumes-makeup/givenchy-la-revelation-2016-makeup/ (Accessed: 20 February 2016).

Originelle Makeup Collection for Givenchy (2016) Available at: http://www.makeup4all.com/givenchy-la-revelation-originelle-makeup-collection-for-spring-2016/ (Accessed: 20 February 2016).

Givenchy S/S 2016 Makeup.

The makeup completed for the Givenchy Spring/Summer Collection 2016 was by Pat McGrath. There were two specific looks for the catwalk for the Spring Summer 2016 collection, both designed by McGrath. The first design, left the models face’s completely covered and adorned in jewels and beads, whilst the second completely contrasted this, with the model’s faces almost stripped bare, with bleached eyebrows and hair hanging down by their shoulders. This contrast mirrored that of the clothing. For the jewelled masks, McGrath took pattern influence from that of the lace in the clothing, as well as using the material from the dresses as adornments. Using the smallest detailing, McGrath managed to entwine the makeup looks directly with the clothing. Out of over 60 models, only 5 were chosen to wear the bejewelled masks, which took just over five hours to apply for a team of makeup artists, directed by McGrath. Another two were selected to fashion a deep-red lip, whilst the other model's were bare-faced with bleached brows.

One of the lace and pearly combination looks.
Givenchy, SS2016

"We were told the show was a celebration of love in all its forms. Riccardo wanted the masks to look soft, to be more romantic and organic, but still strong and a bit strange." (McGrath, 2015)

One of the bare-faced, bleached eyebrow looks.
Givenchy, SS2016

The jewelled mask application was led by McGrath, and was top-secret. Even during the application, the models and artists were in a small section backstage, which was shrouded in velvet. The materials were directly from the fabrics from the clothing; "Riccardo chose the different materials for the masks because he wanted them to work with the dresses, and so there was contrast between them on the runway. The metal plates you see around the model's forehead you'll also see in the clothes" (McGrath, 2015). Each mask differed to the other, one was made from layers of pearls and lace, another made from tulle and pearls, another made completely from jewels, one made entirely from lace and the last was more of a headband of studs that were glued onto the model's skin. The team applied the decorations using specialist glue, commonly used in Special Effects. This made sure that all of the jewels were secure, and would not move about during the show. Planning the looks, McGrath used the same materials on a plan of the model's faces on a sheet of clear plastic, for reference when creating the looks. After all of the facial adornments were in place, McGrath and her team then went in to work into the model's skin, so the makeup underneath matched that of the other 60 models. Their brows were bleached, a small amount of concealer used, and then grey-brown sunken eyes. Most of the hairstyles consisted of the hair lying flat against the head in tousled waves, whilst a select few used headbands, or low ponytails to portray the industrialism in the collection. The hair was then spritzed with hairspray before the model's left for the runway. The hairstyles were designed and applied by Murenu.

The vampy-red lip look.
Givenchy, SS2016

I find the makeup looks very individual, as well as complimentary of the clothing. I think that McGrath and Tisci have worked well together to create such hauntingly beautiful looks. I adore the bleached brow look as it makes the model's look slightly alien, but their faces are still beautiful. I particularly liked how McGrath did not use too much product on the model's faces, as only a small bit of concealer where needed, and a small application of brown mascara kept the look natural. The bejewelled faces are so detailed but bizarre, that they also are very beautiful in their own right. I think I would like to play around with the idea of using jewels and lace, although I do not think I will complete a full look like McGrath. I would like to try applying small amounts of jewels, and see where I prefer them to sit. I have grasped a lot of influence and inspiration from this collection and the makeup, that I feel like I am ready to begin designing my concepts.

A Jewelled Mask.
Givenchy, SS2016

Panych, S. and Magazine, A. (2015) All the details of those amazing masks at Givenchy. Available at: http://www.allure.com/beauty-trends/blogs/daily-beauty-reporter/2015/09/givenchy-beauty-spring-2016.html (Accessed: 18 February 2016).
Pierce, C. (2015) Makeup artist Pat McGrath on the story behind Givenchy’s extraordinary face masks. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13334646/givenchy-spring-2016-face-masks-beauty-pat-mcgrath-backstage-models/ (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Givenchy S/S 2016 Clothing Collection.

Kim and Kanye West.

Describing the collection as “a celebration of life, pure love, different religions and all people.,” Riccardo Tisci led the Spring Summer 2016 Collection Catwalk during New York Fashion Week. The collection was notably a variation of clothing, some pieces inspired by Givenchy's earlier clothing designs. This catwalk marked the 10 years of Tisci at Givenchy, so this show was not to be missed. Celebrities from all over gathered at the Freedom Tower, which was also marking it's own 14th anniversary of the attack on the Twin Towers. Givenchy dedicated this collection to the city of New York, particularly through the location of the show, which is usually delivered in Paris. Two thousand spectators gathered to see the show, such as Kim Kardashian-West and her husband Kanye, Courtney Love and Liv Tyler. Alongside these A-Listers, sat ordinary New York citizens, and fashion students, after Givenchy decided to release 800 tickets to the general public. As the guests entered the show, they were welcomed by recycled materials, and crates as seats. I think that this is interesting of the artistic director, Marina Abramovic due to the usual luxury that Givenchy oozes.

Givenchy SS2016.

The collection entwines haute-couture as well as ready-to-wear, in a very small palette, black or white. Most of the collection only consisted of these two colours in various tones such as creams or greys, but some had injections of gold and silver. This restricted palette radiated luxury, as well as an essence of the avant grade. Givenchy had a collection that oozes both femininity, as well as structure, mixing different pieces together. A lot of silks and lace were used by Givenchy for the Spring/Summer 2016 Collection, as well as many pearls. The silks were often used to soften the looks and make them more feminine, whilst I found that the lace added tradition and quality to the pieces. The softness is not only portrayed throughout the material itself, but also how the piece is put together. I noticed that a lot of the silk pieces are very floaty, with little or no waistline and structure. Instead, the structure is transferred through to the heavier materials, such as the tuxedo jackets. Detail is thoroughly important in this collection, even the shoes are patterned like lace with a classic brogue-like front, then transformed into an elegant heel. I think that the corset-like front is very effective, as the essence of tradition once again oozes through the clothing. The lace in the clothing, to me, portrayed women's lingerie. I found that not only the flowery and intricate patterns showed off the femininity, but also the shapes of the pieces.  Feathers and snake-print were often found in the designs for this year. I found it interesting how the pieces were feminine in some aspects, and then not as such in others. For example, the feather, mermaid-tailed dress was very elegant and feminine at the bottom half, as the material glided down the runway. However, when you reach the top section of the dress, the clothing is thin mesh-like material. This is revealing, and not as feminine as the bottom half of the dress. I think that it is interesting how Givenchy have managed this, as the dress is still luxurious but risqué. Although the collection is haute-couture, the use of black for a Spring Collection interested me. Whilst other brands are using vibrant colours in their Spring collections, Givenchy played it cool with the black and white palette. I think that this is to keep in touch with the younger generations, who wear black all-year round, and is a popular colour choice that is trending right now. The monochromatic colour scheme is also popular in society right now, which is possibly why Givenchy decided to restrict the colours in their collection. The designs have come a long way from the iconic 'Little Black Dress' that was featured in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' by Audrey Hepburn, but I feel that there is an essence of elegance as well as challenging the social norm. At the time, the dress for 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' was a lot shorter than others.

Givenchy SS2016.

I will be able to use this show as inspiration for my three shoots. I think that it is important for me to study not only the makeup, but the clothing as well. As Givenchy originated as a fashion house, the clothing is the roots of the brand. Personally, I really liked the clothing that featured in the collection. I think that it is interesting how Givenchy has managed to entwine both femininity and structure, and I particularly enjoy the use of silks, lace and feathers. I now need to look at the makeup and hair from the show, as I feel that the makeup is there to compliment the clothes. Although we are focusing on the makeup for the shoots for the catwalk, advertising and editorial, I would like to try and entwine both the clothing and makeup. This has really inspired me to begin designing my makeup looks, and thinking about my photoshoots. 

Moss, V. (2015) Riccardo Tisci celebrates 10 years at Givenchy with love, religion and a clan of celebrities. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/new-york-fashion-week/givenchy-spring-summer-2016-show/ (Accessed: 16 February 2016).
Bumpus, J. (2015) Givenchy - SS2016 - Ready-to-Wear. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/givenchy (Accessed: 16 February 2016).

Technical File - Chignon.

In Lottie's technical session, we looked at how to create a Chignon Up-do, and then looked at how to decorate the hair. The Chignon is a hairstyle that is very popular in bridal and prom looks. 'Chignon' means 'Bun' in French, and is a relatively easy and quick up-do hairstyle. It can be worn sleek and tidy, or messy, it's versatility leads to its popularity.



Health and Safety -
Always make sure that products are clean and sanitised, ready to use. This goes the same for brushes and equipment.
Make sure your hair is tied back, with no jewellery that will interfere with the model/client.
Make sure you use a cape to cover the model/client's clothing.
Sanitise hands.
Always complete a consultation beforehand.

Equipment -

Sectioning Comb.

Sectioning Clips. 

Hair Brush.

Pins. 

Kirby Grips.

Hair Band.

Decoration. 

Method -

1. Begin by combing through the hair, ensuring that there are no knots. 
2. Section the hair horizontally, over the head from ear to ear, and pin the hair at the front away from the back so you have a clean section to work with. 
3. With the back section, tie it up in a low ponytail, just at the nape. 
4. Backcomb the top of the ponytail to give depth to the chignon. 
5. In your hands, roll the hair into a barrel, to sit just above the ponytail. 
6. Secure using a kirby grip on each side of the head. 
7. With each end, tease the hair round with your fingers, so that the hair on each end of the barrel curls into the head, and using a fine pin, secure. 
8. For the front sections of hair, create a parting. 
9. With each side, twist the hair together towards the top of the head. Bring these sections behind the head, and wrap over the top of the chignon, and secure using a kirby grip. 
10. For decoration, you can use ribbons, hair clips, or even necklaces to create the desired effect. 

I am really pleased with the outcome of today's look. I thought that this process would be a lot more difficult, however, I found this simple and am happy with the final product. I think that I could work on the corners of the chignon a little more, as they were a little gappy, this could be sorted by using more backcombing, or even using padding. For the decoration, I used a small necklace and wrapped it around the hair twists to hold, and kirby gripped to secure. I am pleased with the final look, as it is very elegant. I would like to see how I could create a curly or messy chignon, as more of a younger look. 

Dewy/Matte Makeup.

For our first practical with Fenella, we focused on creating Dewy and Matte bases. These looks are staple to the catwalk, as well as beauty and editorial advertising. The looks are both so versatile and can be worn as they are, but also can just be used as a base for a look.

Health and Safety -
Always make sure that products are clean and sanitised, ready to use. This goes the same for brushes and equipment.
Make sure your hair is tied back, with no jewellery that will interfere with the model/client.
Make sure you use a cape to cover the model/client's clothing.
Sanitise hands.
Always complete a consultation beforehand.

Products -

Bobbi Brown Pro Longwear Foundation in Alabaster.

Kryolan UltraFoundation. 

Kryolan Camouflage Palette.

Illamasqua Hydraveil. 

Illamasqua Radiance Veil.

Kryolan GlamourGlow Palette.

MAC Shine. 

Blush Palette.

Translucent Powder.

Method:

Dewy Skin

1. Begin by prepping the face using cleanser, toner and moisturiser.
2. Apply a thin layer of Illamasqua's HydraVeil, which will prime and hydrate the skin. 
3. Follow this with a thin layer of Illamasqua's Radiance Veil on the high points of the face. 
4. Use the Kryolan Camouflage Palette to conceal any blemishes or dark circles on the face. 
5. Mix a foundation colour to match the skin tone. I used the Bobbi Brown Pro Longwear Foundation in Alabaster, with a touch of the Kryolan Foundation Palette in the lightest tone. Buff this into the skin. 
6. Set the areas of the face that you do not want to appear as oily, such as the T-Zone and sides of the face. 
7. Using your finger, tap Radiance Veil lightly onto the cheekbones, and bridge of nose, and cupids bow. 
8. Set this with the lightest highlight powder from the Glamour Glow Palette. 
9. Work into the eyebrows with an eyebrow colour and comb them.
10. Add MAC Shine to the lips and eyelids. 

Dewy look on Becky. 

Dewy look on Becky. 

Matte Skin

1. Begin by prepping the skin using cleanser, toner and moisturiser. 
2. Prime the face using Illamasqua's Matte Primer.
3. Using the Camouflage Palette, conceal any blemishes or under-eye bags. 
4. Buff the correct shade of foundation into the model's skin, focusing on the centre of the face. Blend outwards.
5. Apply Translucent Powder specifically under the eyes and on eyelids so that the foundation does not crease, then powder the whole face. 

Matte Skin on Becky.

Matte Skin on Becky. 

I am really pleased with how the skin looks in both sets of photographs. I managed to create flawless bases, both with different textures. It is really useful to learn these skills as they are very necessary when creating many different looks. I found the creasing of the foundation and issue for the dewy skin, so I had to work very fast and ask my model not to open her eyes especially when I added the MAC Shine, as the product began to slip about. Overall, I am pleased with both of these looks. 

Hubert de Givenchy

After researching the trends of Spring/Summer 2016, one brand particularly caught my eye. Givenchy's SS/2016 looks are original, crazy but beautiful at the same time, which inspired me to choose Givenchy as my brand for this unit. I believe that I will be able to create a range of looks inspired by the SS/2016 Fashion Week trends, allowing me to be diverse when thinking about my ideas. To begin with, I think that it is important for me to look at Givenchy as both a brand, and as a person, to understand what is behind the thoughts and feelings of the designer.

Hubert De Givenchy is the founder of the haute couture fashion house, Givenchy in 1952. Hubert de Givenchy was born in 1927, to an aristocratic family living in Beauvais, France. When Givenchy was just three years old, his father, Lucien, died, so he was brought up by his mother and grandmother.
His love for fashion was undoubtedly inspired by those who brought him up, as in an aristocratic family, being presentable is a very important factor to everyday life. He considered a career in law, but his inner creative pulled him towards becoming a fashion designer. From the age of 17, he was working for top Parisian fashion designers, such as Jacques Fath and Lucien Lelong.

The Bettina Blouse from Givenchy's first collection. 1952.

In 1952, after working for Robert Piguet and Elsa Schiaparelli, Hubert de Givenchy decided to open his own designer fashion brand, using his last name as the label of the brand. He began by releasing a range of floating skirts, and raw cotton blouses, calling the collection 'Les Seperables'. With an amazing critical reception from the likes of Vogue and the New York Times, the house of Givenchy was born. Immediately famous models such as Suzy Parker and Ivy Nicholson wanted to be seen in his clothing, therefore becoming the faces of the brand. Givenchy became known for it's chic, feminine designs, all over the world. In 1956, Givenchy came into contact with Cristobal Balenziaga, a designer whom Givenchy appreciated and admired. They worked together, creating a new loose form waistline named 'The Sack'. From here, Givenchy became the first fashion house to release a ready-to-wear collection, 'Givenchy Universite' featuring the first shirt dress for the new generation of women. After releasing a mens clothing range alongside the womenswear collection, the brand was booming, keeping in line with all fashion trends, and challenging society with his designs. The silhouettes became looser, and the hemline shorter. Givenchy became associates of many celebrities, in particular, the iconic Audrey Hepburn. He, alongside costume designer Edith Head, designed her attire for 'Funny Face' in 1957 and 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' in 1961, which started off a great relationship between these two. He worked alongside her for many years, designing many costumes for her in her films. Hepburn was not the only celebrity to work with Givenchy, but also U.S. first lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Princess Grace of Monaco and Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor.

Hubert De Givenchy, aged 25. 

Givenchy's passion for decoration was not only used in his clothing designs, but also within interior design. In the 1970's, Givenchy began to travel, designing the interiors for many Hilton Hotels, and he was even commissioned to design the interior of a Lincoln Continental Mark V. In 1976, Givenchy had it's own offices on New York's Fifth Avenue, which was a huge success. After winning many awards for his business, as well as being elected personality of the year in 1979 and the most elegant man of the year by The Best Magazine, Givenchy celebrated 30 years of the House of Givenchy, organised by Fashion Institute of Technology of New York, and the following year, he is given the name 'Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur'. In 1988, Givenchy joined the LVMH, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and in 1995 Hubert de Givenchy left Givenchy, to be succeeded by many British Fashion Designers such as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien MacDonald.
In 2005, Riccardo Tisci was named artistic director of Givenchy, and has since kept the brand in line with the elegant, architectural influences. “Modern women want to be sophisticated and yet also feel powerful and sexy. There are still princesses, but today’s princess no longer rides around with a horse and carriage. She parties, she goes on vacation, she goes on boats. She wants to be dynamic.” (Tisci, 2007)

Riccardo Tisci, 29.

I think that it is important for me to understand the roots of the brand, so completing research on the founder, Hubert de Givenchy, has benefit me. The brand is clearly reminiscent of the elegant aristocrats, but with the help of Riccardo Tisci, has become darker, but still challenging the times. I adore the pieces that are created by the brand, as they bring the iconic Givenchy look together with a dark sensuality that is prominent within the designs.


De Albornoz, C.C. (2013) Givenchy runway Collections—Four seasons magazine. Available at: http://magazine.fourseasons.com/travel-food-style/shopping-style/fashion-trends/givenchy-fashion (Accessed: 15 February 2016).
Bio (no date) Givenchy. Available at: http://www.biography.com/people/hubert-de-givenchy-37466#later-career-and-retirement (Accessed: 15 February 2016).
Givenchy (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Givenchy (Accessed: 15 February 2016).

Spring/Summer 2016 Trends.

Upon entering this unit, I knew that it would be very important for me to be updated with the trends from the Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Weeks. Whilst researching this, I came across an article on Cosmopolitan, which was on the makeup and hair trends of SS2016. This has inspired me for my looks, and it is such an easy site to manoeuvre around, that I can see all of the trends in one place. Using this, I am going to choose the main recurring looks that were trending during the Fashion Weeks.

Makeup Trends


Wispy/Exaggerated Eyelashes
This lash look was prominent within the SS2016 Fashion Weeks. The eye look is reminiscent of the 60's wispy eyelashes, which enhances the eyes and makes the model's look very innocent. I think the idea of innocent fun is a big trend within the clothing and makeup for the Spring/Summer looks. Contrasting looks to the wispy, angelic, long eyelashes are the immensely clumpy mascara look. Grunge is back in according to many of the looks from the SS2016 catwalks, and this look reinforces it.

Louis Vuitton, SS2016.

Marni, SS2016. 

Thomas Tait, SS2016

Blue Hues

Blue is a colour that is definitely trending for the SS2016 looks. Many of the fashion brands featured blue eye shadows, from Chanel's futuristic band of ice blue across the eyes, to Missoni's navy blue paintwork across the lids onto the brows. Alexis Marilee featured a soft, 90's blue eyeshadow alongside pink blusher, which hints at pastel tones appearing through this season. 

Alexis Mabille, SS2016
Lloyd Simmonds MUA

Missoni, SS2016

Kohl Eyeliner

Black kohl eyeliner featured across the Fashion Weeks, representing the Grunge trend this year. Teamed alongside greased back hair, this was prominent throughout this seasons looks. Julien Macdonald went for the glossy black eye and heavy liner using the L'Oreal Paris makeup, whilst Issa chose to create a flawless glowing skin, teamed with a harsh, black underline. Throughout each of the looks, I have noticed that the designers use each trend differently. Some head to one extreme, some to the other, and the kohl eyeliner trend is no exception. 

Issa, SS2016

Julien MacDonald, SS2016.

Statement Brows

With the comeback of prominent brows with the help of supermodel Cara Delevinge, it was no surprise that the brow would be appearing throughout the Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Weeks. However, there were many ways in which the makeup artists for this event placed the focus on the brow. For Givenchy, the model's sunken eyes were enhanced by the bleached brows, giving the perception of no brows at all, which made the model's look very alien. Whilst other brands such as Ashley Williams opted for a strikingly thin, high arched brow, drawn over the model's own concealed brows. This was very popular back in the 90's, which shows that this era, alongside the 60's, has influenced these trends. Christopher Kane opted for the total opposite with his model's brows, as they sported immensely bushy, but tamed, natural brows. The brows were not filled completely but enhanced with soft brush strokes.

Ashley Williams, SS2016

Givenchy, SS2016

Christopher Kane, SS2016

Flawless, Glowing Skin

The fresh-faced beauty was a common recurrence throughout the Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Weeks. Many designers opted for a softer, flawless face, giving a highly romantic and innocent feel to the catwalk. Alberta Ferretti's makeup artist complimented the dewy, fresh skin with hints of gold, which was further enhanced by the gold touches of hair pieces. J.W. Anderson also opted for the fresh faced beauty, but complimented his model's skin with their bold brows. By using a more glowing, flawless base, focus is much more on the clothing. Contouring does not take centre stage in this season's looks, instead, designers have chosen to do minimal contour to make the faces soft, and natural.

Alberta Ferretti, SS2016

J.W. Anderson, SS2016.

Facial Adornments

Glitter, Beads, Sequins and Appliqué were all recurring trends on the Spring/Summer 2016 catwalks. With all trends, some designers chose to add hints of pieces onto the skin, whereas others decided to exaggerate this look. Bora Aksu, used small amounts of FaceLace on the model's foreheads and temples, which gave an ethereal and soft, feminine look. Ashish went a little further with this idea, adorning their models with glitter hair partings, and glitter and sequin eyes. This added sparkles of colour, fun and femininity to the catwalk. Givenchy went even further with this idea, adorning their model's faces with lace appliqué, and pearls of all shapes and sizes, with the help of Pat McGrath. The makeup supported the clothing, as the lace used was the same as that used for the clothing, and the shapes and patterns presented on the clothing were also prominent in the patterns on the face.

Bora Aksu, SS2016

Ashish, SS2016

Givenchy Pearls, SS2016

Givenchy Jewels, SS2016.

Red Lip

The Red Lip was a trend that recurred throughout the SS2016 collections, but in many shades. Designers such as Celine opted for the vibrant red lip, bringing this iconic lip colour back into action, whilst other designers such as Anna Sui, decided on a darker, berry-red lip. Red was frequent throughout the Fashion Weeks, in both the clothing and the makeup.

Anna Sui, SS2016

Celine, SS2016

Hair Trends

Wet Look

Wet Look hair was prominent throughout the Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Weeks. Alongside braiding, I think it is the most frequent and popular trend of this year. Kenzo used the wet look in a softer way, focusing on greasing up the roots, and letting the ends be softer and wavy. This gave a very tom-boy look, which was popular throughout the catwalk. DSquared2 opted for an all over wet hair look, which was very surf like, which enhanced the style of their clothing. Both these brands, alongside others left the hair down, but designers PPQ decided to use the wet look to create up-dos. Alongside bright colours, the hair stylists from Wella Professionals slicked down the hair in middle partings, pinning it back behind the ears.

DSquared2, SS2016

Kenzo, SS2016

PPQ, SS2016

Braiding

Braiding was prominent throughout the catwalk shows, from Louis Vuitton plaiting the smallest braids into their model's hair, to Kristian Aadnevik creating cute, romantic half-up, half-down looks. Multi-braids were used thoroughly, as well as hair twisting. Braiding and twisting creates soft looks, that hint towards the 60's as well as tribal influence.

Kristian Aadnevik, SS2016

Public School. SS2016

Pigtails

The iconic child-like hairstyle with mature twist was used several times on the Spring/Summer 2016 catwalk. Both Marni and Mui Mui's models sported this look, where the pigtails are sleek but soft, and along the nape of the neck, rather than the sides of the heads. Marin used the twisting technique to add detail to this look. This further supports the idea that some the looks this season are revolving around innocence.

Marni, SS2016

Mui Mui, SS2016

Ornate Headpieces

Headpieces, such as clips, hair pins and head bands were all used as decoration for the hair in the Spring/Summer 2016 Fashion Weeks. Some designers opted for ornate, crown-like headbands, whilst others chose simplistic pieces such as large kirby grips. The range in designs is vast, but it is clear that they either fit into two categories, the staple headpieces, or the ornate and decorative.

Givenchy, SS2016

Dolce and Gabbana, SS2016

Mui Mui, SS2016

3.1 Phillip Lim, SS2016

Ponytail

The ponytail featured in this year's Spring/Summer 2016 trends, in a range of shapes and sizes.  The low pony, alongside the low bun, is making it's way through into the Spring/Summer collections, linking in with the softness of the trends. In comparison, high, sleek pony tails are prominent in the designs, completely contrasting the low ponytails. Some opt to leave the hair to fall from the ponytail, others decide to twist the hair or braid it. This is a versatile look that's outcome can be anywhere from grungy, to soft and playful.

Temperley, SS2016

Balmain, SS2016

Public School, SS2016.

After completing the research on these trends, it has inspired me as to how I will be able to use these to create my own, original looks. I am looking forward to begin designing, however, first I need to research my chosen brand. I am concerned as to how I am going to use these designs to create my own looks, but I am confident that I can practice and see how I feel about certain looks. I particularly like the bleached brows, as well as the use of blue shadows and wispy lashes, and with the hair I really like the use of plaiting and braiding, and decorating the hair. I think that I need to decide what trend suits each category out of Advertising, Catwalk and Editorial, as for example, I think the Advertising has to be more aimed towards everyday women as it should be an everyday look, so bleached brows would not suit this category as much as the flawless skin would. I am really looking forward to creating my own ideas, particularly experimenting with the use of facial jewels as this can be really effective in looks.

Bridget and Venti, L. (2015) Stunning spring/summer 2016 beauty trends. Available at: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/ (Accessed: 15 February 2016).